(Bloomberg) -- In the days leading up to the Paris Olympic Games there are plenty of questions. Will this be the most luxurious games ever? Are local hotel rooms sitting empty? Will the heat be stifling for athletes, not to mention spectators?
Yet another question is where to eat, when over 11 million people are expected to descend on the city over the next two-plus weeks, in a city where food is arguably more important than anywhere else in the world.
Bloomberg Pursuits talked to four experts on the subject of top tables in Paris. Your guides are:
Wendy Lyn, whose site Paris Is My Kitchen is required reading for any hungry visitors to France, with a list of 100-plus spots to eat and drink this summer. Her recent book is Rainy Day Paris: A Practical Guide: 100 Places to Keep Dry (Hardie Grant Publishing).
Meg Zimbeck, the founder of the beloved site Paris by Mouth. For summer dining, she’s listed over 100 places on her Paris Restaurants Open in July and August substack list.
Maisie Wilhem, who runs the esteemed private dining service Palatine Culinary Concierge, connecting companies and travelers to singular food experiences.
Lindsey Tramuta, the popular Paris-based journalist, author of The New Paris (Abrams Books), and creator of the podcast, The New Paris Podcast.
The first thing all four advise is where not to go to eat. The security zones that have been erected around town — and the Olympics QR code that are required to gain entry into some cordoned-off areas — are already wreaking havoc around the city. The areas mainly to avoid are the grey zone, which hugs a long stretch of the Seine where events are taking place or ticketed viewing spots. (The city’s interactive map can help visitors figure out the zones.)
In general, the experts point to restaurants in East and North Paris, especially the perennially lively 11th arrondissement. (One notable exception below is in the 7th, not far from the Eiffel Tower, where you might find yourself seated near the French president’s wife.) If you’re attending the games, consider lunch, says Lyn: “Most of the main Olympic events are at night. If you’re attending them, you’re not going to get a table for dinner because kitchens in that area have to close by 10, legally. Don’t expect to walk in at 9.55 and order a meal.”
Here then are the eight picks of our experts, with notes on why they think you should go there, too.
Editors Note: All the places below had dinner availability at press time; as well as lunch at places open at midday.
Les Enfants du Marche, 3rd arrondissement
Within the old covered market Marche des Enfants Rouge is owner Michael Grosman’s miraculous dining spot. “If you want to go to a restaurant where earlier in the morning, a fishmonger walked in the door with a 400-pound tuna, and later in the day, Alain Ducasse might be sitting next to you, this is it,” says Lyn. Diners sit around chef Shunta Susuki’s open kitchen; his menu changes seasonally, but there’s generally some form of ceviche, plus bistro standards like oysters, charcuterie and a skirt steak with mashed potatoes. The wine list, of course, is focused on natural bottles from small producers. As for the vibe: “Fun Ibiza party,” says Lyn. “You might see a conga line going through the restaurant.” Details: Open every day except Monday; the place is famously no reservations. (There’s a No Booking sign, front and center in the window.)
Le Mary Celeste, 3rd arrondissement
Unlike so many places in Paris with peculiar operating days and times, Le Mary Celeste is always open, and Lyn champions it. From noon until 2 a.m., every single day of the week, this sunny corner spot has tables indoors and out where you can hang out with a cocktail, a small producer-sourced glass of wine and a couple engaging small plates. At lunch and dinner hours the menu expands to serve dishes like agnolotti with ricotta for 18 euros, and a dessert of yuzu and miso pie. (The small cosmo shot accompaniment is an extra 4 euros.) The ginger- and sesame-infused deviled eggs have a cult following; they’re the hands down best seller, says co-owner Carina Soto. Details: Le Mary Celeste is open daily from 12 p.m. to 2 a.m. Last bar orders are at 1.30 a.m.
Le Cheval d’Or, 19th arrondissement
If there’s one restaurant our restaurant experts will point you to, it’s this inspired Asian-fusion spot, up in Belleville, the hottest neighborhood in Paris right now. Chef Hanz Gueco’s serves up inspired specialties like shrimp toast styled, egg topped Croque Monsieur and pithiviers, French pies, with lamb-shiitake-ichuan pepper stuffing; the place has garnered a reputation for stuffed duck a l’orange, which goes for about 100 euros ($108). The place has extended its hours for the Olympics, making it even easier to get in. “Their location out of the city center (and near the city’s most beautiful Parc des Buttes Chaumont) make it ideal for those looking to escape the crowds,” says Paris by Mouth’s Zimbeck. Details: The restaurant is open every day except Sunday through Aug. 10; reservations are available on the website.
Lao Siam, 19th arrondissement
Another Belleville institution, this massive Thai/Laotian restaurant has been around for 40 years and has a fresh feeling now that it’s run by Nicolas, Frédéric, and Alexandre Souk-Savanh, sons of the founders. It’s high on the list for both Lyn and Tramuta, who spotlights the pan-fried, garlicky prawns and crying tiger, a Northern Thai specialty consisting of beef brisket in a spicy house sauce. Next door is Ama Siam, a smaller spot with plaster walls and a more compact menu but with the same, convivial focus on natural wine. Late night, it’s a chefs hang out; they come by after their own kitchens have closed. Details: Lao Saim is open for lunch and dinner every day except Tuesday. Call for reservations (1-40-40-09-68) or line up outside.
Bistrot Paul Bert, 11th arrondissement
This famed Paris hangout in an old butcher shop checks all the boxes of a classic Paris bistro — mirrored walls, chalkboard menu, simple cloth-covered tables inside and out on the street. The highlight of the meat-focused menu is the superbly peppery filet au boeuf au poivre with crisp house fries. For dessert, a souffle is pretty much non-negotiable. The wine list is stronger than a lot of Paris bistros. In fact, if you have to wait for a table, Lyn points you to its cozy wine bar offshoot next door. Details: Reservations are only available by phone; there’s often room for walk-ins (1-43-72-24-01).
Ellsworth Paris, 1st arrondissement
If you want to be near prime time tourist spots like the Louvre but right outside the fenced-off Olympic zone, Ellsworth has your name all over it, says Zembeck. The three-course, 64 euro prix fixe menu offers only two options per course, but they’ll both be top quality. The entree might be juicy pork chops with heirloom tomatoes or a rich spinach and chanterelle risotto with mimolette cheese. Down the street their sister restaurant Verjus also promotes fresh produce. Ellsworth is popular, but the space is large and there are usually last-minute reservations available. “There’s also a small, private dining room upstairs that can host a discrete gathering” that Beyonce and Jay-Z have used, notes Zembeck.Details: Open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner.
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Kubri, 11th arrondissement
A dynamic, woman-run Lebanese restaurant with a futuristic white-walled interior decorated with colorful blocks and low tables, recommended by both Wilhelm and Tramuta. The menu features chef Rita Higgins-inspired classics: avocado-enhanced hummus, gambas, or giant shrimp, bathed in shawarma butter, and roasted chicken accompanied by black lime labneh. The wine list leans natural and is well-matched to the powerfully flavored food. Details: Kubri is open Tuesday through Saturday for both lunch and dinner. Reservations for lunch and dinner can be booked through the website.
La Fontaine de Mars, 7th arrondissement
In the vehicle restricted red zone (cars will need a permit, pedestrians won’t) is this time-honored spot favored by Wilhelm. It was founded in 1908 and looks properly old school with a striped white and red awning fronting a quintessential Left Bank street. Burgundian escargot are a specialty, so is foie gras terrine. The daily changing plat du jour for 25 euros is beef tartare with frites on Mondays and coq au vin on Wednesday. “Last time I was there, I had profiteroles, and Brigitte Macron did too,” says Wilhelm. Details: The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner daily. Reservations are available by phone (01-47-05-46-44) or on the website.
Comice, 16th arrondissement
If you’re in Paris for an elegant but not stuffy experience, Zimbeck and Wilhelm are both big boosters of this Michelin starred dining room. “It feels like a higher end neighborhood gem,” says Wilhelm. Noam Gedalof, the chef, and his wife, sommelier Etheliya Hananova, worked for famed chef Thomas Keller before coming to France. The four-course 120 euro menu might have choices like sea bream tartare with brioche croutons, and roasted and pressed Corsican lamb with artichokes and caper vinaigrette. “It’s in the 16th, not a hip neighborhood but don’t be scared to go there,” advises Wilhelm. Details: Comice is open for dinner daily, through Aug. 10. (After taking a Parisian-style August break, they’ll reopen at the end of the month.)
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