(Bloomberg) -- Being a tourist in Barcelona is not easy these days. The city—an architecture lover’s dream with dozens of fantastical modernist works by the likes of Antoni Gaudí and Lluís Domènch i Montaner, unbeatable weather, world-class dining and a natural setting rivaled by few—has become a flash point in the heated battled over overtourism and the cost of living. Emotions ran so hot this summer that it boiled over with protests in July in which angry Barcelonans sprayed visitors with water guns.
The crowds also mean that visiting the well-known sights can get unpleasant for discerning travelers. Think long lines, impromptu influencer photo shoots, volume-control-challenged foreigners and the creeping sense that you, too, are one of those tourists.
Luckily, there’s plenty to offer outside of the classic Barna itineraries, and we’ve plotted nontouristy options below.
But First, the America’s Cup
The Spanish metropolis is hosting the America’s Cup, which began in late August and runs until October 27th.
Visitors can observe the teams go in and out of docking for the races at the Plaça de la Rosa dels Vents. If you don’t want to splurge on a boat excursion that gets you closer, you can watch the racing from a distance at SantMiquel, Barceloneta and Somorrostro beaches. Jumbo screens are in free fan zones at Plaça del Mar and Bogatell.
Whether it will add to the crowds is an open question. The billionaire boating race so far hasn’t attracted the kind of headlines a Formula One race does, though like the car racing circuit, Barcelona believes it will draw wealthier tourists.
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Act Barcelonan
Most visitors are concentrated in the historic center of Barcelona, in the Gothic Quarter, El Born, Eixample, El Raval and other neighborhoods. So head uptown, to areas not as heavily frequented by tourists such as Gràcia and Sant Gervasi-Galvany. These are residential neighborhoods, and they still feel that way.
One restaurant beloved by knowledgeable Barcelonans is Colmado Wilmot, an upscale Catalan deli in Sant Gervasi-Galvany with seating and a wide-ranging wine list. Around the corner is Bar Milagros, a new spot that sticks mainly to Catalan dishes; the tomato tartare is an attention-grabber. Farther north, toward Gràcia, newcomer Bar Bocata is a tiled intimate joint with a more contemporary Catalan menu. You’ll likely be surrounded by young Catalans on dates or at lively group dinners. Other good options for a drink with a small bite nearby include Rabbit’s Bar, Clara and Fino Bar.
View Architectural Genius
Few architects worldwide left as indelible a mark as the late Ricardo Bofill. His towers grace the Chicago River, his postmodern complexes outside Paris are pilgrimage sights for architecture and Hunger Games fans alike, and his early regionalist works such as Muralla Roja and Xanadú are so popular, fences now protect them.
If there’s one spot in the city to pull strings to visit, it’s his iconic La Fábrica. (A good tour operator can help.) It was the architect’s office and former home, carved out of an abandoned cement factory. It’s not open to the public (despite misleading Google info), but it’s sublime. Recently, Louis Vuitton hosted a star-studded dinner in its white-curtained halls for its Cruise 2025 show.
Also check out Walden 7, the subsidized apartment complex he designed next door as a utopian ideal.
Maximize the Med
The best beaches are north to the Costa Brava or south to Sitges, an easy day trip, but Barcelona itself offers beach bums several decent options if they’re determined to cool off in the city. Depending on the wind, locals will bike to Badalona’s beaches, though it’s also an easy taxi or metro ride.
If you want to stay close to the center of town, the small Nova Icària beach is a good option, and it’s right next to the fan zone. Just south of the airport are two beaches great for sunsets in autumn—Castelldefels and the more wild Gavà Mar. All these options have chairs and umbrellas for rent, as well as bars and restaurants in close proximity.
Experience a Musical Masterpiece
A lot of the modernist masterworks from the turn of the century are now relegated to museum pieces—their halls go quiet after visiting hours end. Although many visitors pack the Palau de la Música Catalana, the phantasmagoric masterpiece by Montaner, during the day, far fewer think to attend a performance there. It’s an unforgettable experience, ensconced in a jewel box of a hall decked out in nature-inspired tiles. And tickets are always reasonably priced, usually from €15 to €80 ($17 to $88).
Throughout September, performances of Spanish guitar and flamenco are regularly scheduled, as well as Carmen, a double billing of the music of Hans Zimmer and John Williams,and even Mozart for children.
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Don’t Skip All the Touristy Areas
While you can and should minimize the amount of time you spend competing with other tourists, that doesn’t mean you should forget the popular areas altogether. There’s a reason they’re popular—they’re beautiful.
Contraban in the Gothic Quarter is currently one of the city’s most sought-after dining spots, a French-meets-Catalan dining room housed in the adults-only Wittmore Hotel. La Plaça de Sant Felip Neri, located in the shadow of the 18th century baroque church with the same name, always feels like a hidden treasure. Take a breather here with a beer or a glass of wine and some tapas at a Restaurant. (Yes, that’s the name.)
The nearby contemporary Galerie Senda is always worth popping into and currently has an exhibition of works by the Mexican-Catalan artist Gino Rubert.
Get Some Fresh Air
It won’t be devoid of other travelers, but a great way to get a reprieve from overcrowded areas and take in all of Barcelona is to head upward. Throw on some sneakers and the hiking shorts and go for a hike.
The Castell de Montjuïc always makes for a nice city view, and the Bunkers del Carmel is a treat for sunset. The climb for both is 20 minutes to 30 minutes, but for Montjuïc you have the option to take public transit up and walk back down. Given that views from these easily stretch to the water, you could possibly catch some of the America’s Cup.
If you have more time, the Carretera de les Aigüe is a charming hike, via a path that runs the length of the Serra de Collserola above Barcelona. (If you want to cut the 16-kilometer flat path in half, you can take the funicular up partway.)
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Where to Stay
For a chic midrange option close to Gràcia and Sant Gervasi-Galvany, you can’t go wrong at Hotel Ohla Eixample Barcelona (rooms start at €300 a night); it has a rooftop pool. Nearby is Casa Fuster (rooms start at €240 a night), a five-star hotel designed by Montaner that was once the most expensive home in the city.
Across the park is El Palauet, a suites-only hotel starting at €770 a night. It used to be a private mansion designed by the same man who created the city’s ornate lampposts. The aforementioned adults-only Wittmore (rooms start at €525) is a very discreet option in the Gothic Quarter.
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