(Bloomberg) -- This review was originally published as part of the Hong Kong Edition newsletter on Dec. 5.
Past reviews: 22 Ships | Bourke’s | Feuille | Joongang Haejang | New Punjab Club | Nobu | Onyx gym | Samsen | Sheung Shing | Watermark
Little Napoli, the award-winning pizzeria that prides itself on how it stays true to its Neapolitan roots, has moved to within walking distance of Central, creating some serious competition for the likes of Motorino and the Pizza Project.
Head chef Gavino Pilo, a native of Naples, just relocated his popular restaurant to Wan Chai from Happy Valley, where it operated for four years. In case there was any doubt, Pilo proudly hangs the accolades he’s garnered over the years, including the Michelin Bib Gourmand, the Foodie Forks award and a place in the 50 Top Pizza Asia-Pacific list.
I went there for lunch on Wednesday with a contact, and we ordered three pizzas (we were hungry) and two San Pellegrino soft drinks. The grand total came to HK$820, including 10% service charge.
If you want the real deal, they encourage you to eat like a Napoletano, meaning the pies would be cut into four, with each slice being folded and eaten by hand — no knives or forks. Sadly, we weren’t able to eat like pros because our pizzas were cut into six.
The area is fast becoming a hotspot for gourmet pizza in Hong Kong. Motorino is just a two-minute walk away on Ship Street, and the Pizza Project on Star Street is six minutes away. My verdict? Little Napoli falls slightly short of Motorino but edges out Pizza Project by a slim margin.
The vibe: Despite the small venue, it felt very bright and airy because of the high ceilings and large windows bringing in all the natural light. The Italian white-and-blue tiles contributed to the cozy atmosphere, as did the big neon sign proclaiming, “Eat Like a Napoletano.”
But the highlight was inside the kitchen: a large and impressive-looking brick oven covered in white tiles.
Who’s next to you: It was mainly the Wan Chai office crowd, dressed in smart-casual wear — no suits. All the tables, including the bar table, were full and everyone appeared to be in good spirits.
We also happened to be seated near Jan Lamb, a Hong Kong radio host and singer, whom I didn’t recognize until my guest told me.
Can you conduct a meeting here? If you want a private conversation, then this is not the place. The tables are seated fairly close to each other. But since it’s a small and cozy location, with room for about 30 people, it can get quite noisy. We were seated near the edge by the window so we were fortunate not to be surrounded by others. We managed to have a good conversation without shouting over the table.
There was quite a long line outside, which stretched around the building. So if you sit next to the window, be prepared for people to watch you chow down pizza.
What we’d order again: All the pies were baked very well, with charred and puffy crusts. There’s quite a selection of toppings, but our server recommended the Luciana, which had Mediterranean octopus, black olives and chili flakes. I’m not typically a fan of octopus, but I admit this was enjoyable. It also had the right amount of heat to give it that extra kick.
He also suggested the Monaca, with Napoli pork sausage and pecorino romano cheese. This was my favorite as it just hit all the savory notes perfectly.
Apart from pizza, there are other dishes you can order such as tuna tartare, fried fish cod and melanzane in carrozza (breaded eggplant).
Need to know: At the moment, it’s not taking any bookings so it’s walk-ins only. Since there are only several tables available, it’s best to arrive early if you want a seat. I got there about 15 minutes before opening, and there were already about 10 people ahead of me.
Little Napoli is located in Shop 6 of the Antung Building on 6-16 Tai Wong Street East in Wan Chai. It’s closed on Mondays and open on Tuesdays from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. From Wednesdays to Sundays, it’s open for lunch from noon to 3 p.m. and for dinner from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Other past reviews: Ando | Absolute Boutique Fitness Studio | Club Bâtard | Citrino | La Terrace by Louise | Magistracy
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