(Bloomberg Businessweek) -- I arrived at Hotel de la Ville, an 18th century palazzo perched above the Piazza di Spagna, on the cusp of golden hour, caught in the flow of locals and visitors angling toward the city’s trattorias and wine bars for their daily aperitivo.
The cool, drizzly March weather made a spritz at the hotel’s lively second-floor Julep Herbal & Vermouth Bar tempting. But I had other plans: The Spanish Steps were less than 100 feet away, and I imagined that at this food- and drink-centric time of day, the famous travertine staircase would be devoid of sightseers.
How naive.
I’d planned my visit to the Italian capital for what I thought was the offseason, at the tail end of winter. But the sea of tourists that spilled down the 135 steps below made me wonder if Taylor Swift had decided to kick off the European leg of her Eras Tour early—and in Rome.
The reality is there’s no longer an offseason here. The Eternal City is eternally full of tourists. It welcomed a record 35 million visitors last year, and 2024 is forecast to be another banner year. So it takes some creativity to plan a visit and rethink old strategies.
For example, in a complete inversion of what travelers have long held true, it turns out August is the Goldilocks month. That’s when things in the city are just right, says Fulvio De Bonis, co-founder of Imago Artis Travel. A born-and-bred Roman, he’s been conducting insider tours of the capital’s blockbuster sites and hidden gems since 2007.
Discerning travelers write off summer because of the crowds, but August is the one month in high season that feels quiet, De Bonis says over lunch at La Fiaschetta, a tiny trattoria in the Campo de’ Fiori neighborhood. The throngs thin, the sun shines, and the rooftop bars stay open. School is back in session in some parts of the US, and, though people fear the broiling heat, the weather is in fact not quite as brutal as in June and July, he says. (He also cites November, January and February as good times to visit.)
Maria Strati, longtime general manager at J.K. Place Roma—one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels—concurs about August. Ferragosto, an old Roman holiday, falls on Aug. 15, and many Italians use it as an excuse to make a monthlong escape to the coast. Some restaurants close for the week, but the city doesn’t shut down like it used to, she says, especially in the historic center.
Anytime you go, though, you’ll need to strategize. New outposts of the Mandarin Oriental, Rosewood and Four Seasons are coming, contributing to a rise in hotel prices. The nightly average rate for a luxury room rose to $715 in 2023, from $434 in 2018, according to data from CoStar; this year is already trending higher. Yet August provides a respite: Rates at luxury hotels last summer were 24% lower, down to $635 from an average of $834 in July.
All these visitors mean more restaurant-goers. Requests made months in advance—at any hour—at a classic institution such as Roscioli, the revered family-run bakery and salumeria, may end up on a waitlist. (Even for a table for one.)
Plus, more Romans are enjoying Rome, De Bonis says. Some are taking advantage of free entry to museums as part of the city’s First Sunday initiative. New five-star hotels are embracing locals as well, he tells me. “Soho House gives us a social club, and the terrace of the Bulgari is my go-to spot to have a meeting and cocktails at sunset.”
There’s no sign the city will slow, not with 2025 a Jubilee year for the Vatican—filled with religious festivals and events that have warranted $1.4 billion in infrastructure investment.
With all that in mind, here are some tactics to help you navigate Rome’s attractions and discover its latest charms.
Swap Sunset for SunriseOne trick is simply to beat the early birds. During the magic hour after sunrise one morning in March, I found the Spanish Steps were empty except for a half-dozen doves and a lone jogger—though this time of day is quickly becoming popular with influencers.
The social media set is unlikely, however, to join a 6 a.m. tour of the Vatican that lets you follow the clavigero (key keeper) as he turns on the lights and opens the doors throughout the museum. Another option is to join seasoned marathoner and art historian Isabella Calidonna, chief executive officer of ArcheoRunning, on her fascinating guided tour/workouts.
Splurge on an InsiderExperts such as De Bonis can unlock the city’s main sights and recommend local treasures you’d never find on the web—private experiences for four people can cost more than $15,000.
For a Colosseum visit, he paired me with archaeologist Chiara Morciano, who walked me past the lines to the site’s recently opened third tier. Only eight visitors are allowed at a time; tickets are released 30 days in advance and sell out in a few hours. The experience is like being in a VIP box at the Super Bowl, surveying the Colosseum’s arena, which is far more mobbed than any halftime show.
And yet, Morciano one-upped all that by leading me down a narrow alley nearby and into a small church open only by appointment. Inside, she instructed me to sit and close my eyes. When I reopened them, a floor-to-ceiling wooden door had been unbolted to reveal a sweeping view of the Forum. It was a seat worthy of a Roman ruler.
Explore Beyond the City CenterEven if you’re a first-timer, Elisa Valeria Bove, CEO of private tour company Roma Experience, recommends venturing a few miles out of the city. Strolling the Appian Way, one of the world’s oldest byways, dotted with royal villas and mausoleums, is like “walking through ancient Rome,” she says.
That applies to food, too. Rome-based food writer Katie Parla pointed me toward less central spots, such as Trecca in Ostiense, Mazzo in Centocelle and Santo Palato in San Giovanni. (All are open for most of August.) I needed to book at least a week in advance, but my dinners were well worth the Uber ride.
Where to Stay
The new standard for luxury in Rome is the Bulgari Hotel, right off the Piazza Augusto Imperatore. There’s a 60-foot pool inspired by the ancient Baths of Caracalla, and the 114 rooms have mosaic marble floors and custom fabrics from historic Venetian brand Rubelli. Michelin darling Niko Romito runs all six restaurants (from $1,750). Six Senses has earned buzz for its social club vibe and extensive wellness offerings. The brand’s first urban resort has a scene-y rooftop bar, health-minded restaurant and massive two-floor spa (from $1,080). Want to feel like royalty? Palazzo Borghese is still inhabited by the heirs of its namesake family. But the east wing has been annexed as Palazzo Shedir, where four butler-serviced suites let guests try on their opulent lifestyle (from $850).
Where to Eat
You could follow food writer Katie Parla to the outer neighborhoods for the restaurants Romans are raving about—or explore the city on her culinary tour. (Book six to nine months in advance.) Reservations anywhere are perpetually a challenge, but she can help you craft a custom itinerary with hard-to-score tables.
Prioritize these hot-right-now spots close to major sites: Near Campo de’ Fiori, the year-old Cesare al Pellegrino—an offshoot of beloved trattoria Cesare al Casaletto—is devoted to Roman comfort foods, such as pan-fried meatballs, and natural wine. At the W Hotel near the Trevi Fountain, acclaimed Sicilian chef Ciccio Sultano runs Mediterranean-inspired Giano, which does an excellent spaghetti vongole. Save room for the sensational desserts, like a prickly pear cannolo. Da Etta, steps from the madness of Trastevere, serves an all-day menu of perfect Roman classics: deep-fried salt cod with artichokes and puntarelle paired with wines from the 2,000-bottle cellar. Orma, near the Galleria Borghese, is where you’ll find ambitious tasting menus by veteran chef Roy Caceres. His more casual bistrot next door serves lunch signatures such as the 65C carbonara egg, soft-cooked and floating in Parmigiano-Reggiano foam, served with a side of puffed pasta and guanciale.
For DIY types, there’s the New Roman Times, a newsletter by American writer Laura Itzkowitz. It offers discerning insights on everything from life-changing gelato shops to great beach towns worthy of a day trip.
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